There’s no shortage of snobbery in the record collecting hobby, which can leave some newcomers afraid to ask what they might see as a “silly question”.
But you know what!? There are no silly questions.
In a bid to break down some of the elitism and continue to make this hobby viable into the future, let’s open the conversation on common questions about vinyl and record collecting that new enthusiasts are too afraid to ask.
Do I need an expensive turntable to enjoy vinyl?
No: There are many very affordable turntables and record players out there these days, and competition continues to increase, helping to keep prices reasonable.
Models by Pro-Ject, Fluance, Audio Technica and many more allow you to get started with a model that will produce exceptional sound for just a few hundred dollars.
If I was just starting out today, I would be very tempted by models such as the Fluance RT81+, which I’ve reviewed on this channel, or the next model in in the RT82.
The RT81+ has a built-in phono preamp, meaning you won’t need to purchase one separately, while the RT82 forgoes the convenience of a built-in phono stage for a better motor design and scalable upgrades up to the RT85 model.
Why do I need a preamp for my turntable?
The short answer is this:
The signal produced by a record cartridge is very weak; much lower than the standard signal level produced by most other consumer Hi-Fi electronics.
In addition, records are cut with the bass frequencies reduced, and the high frequencies boosted. This equalization helps to permit longer recording times by keeping groove dimensions small, while also increasing sound quality and decreasing record wear.
Somewhere in your signal path we need a phono stage to:
A) Amplify the signal level up to a level suitable for the standard AUX input on your stereo.
B) Apply an equalization curve to inverse the standard frequency adjustment made during the record-cutting process. Most readers of this site will, of course, know this as applying the standard RIAA equalization curve.
Without a phono preamp, you simply won’t be able to play back your records.
The good news is that you might already have one. Many turntables already have a built-in phono preamp, and a lot of integrated amplifiers also have a built-in phono stage.
If you’re using a turntable with Bluetooth connectivity, you’re also good to go.
It’s worth noting, however, that external phono preamps will almost always improve the audio quality.
Will playing my vinyl records wear them out?
Playing vinyl records is a mechanical process, so some wear over time is just the nature of the beast.
The good news is, if you have a good quality turntable that is set up correctly, and you take good care of your records, record wear can be minimized drastically.
Well-looked-after records played on a good system can last a lifetime and beyond.
And yes, naturally, it all depends on just how much you might play any particular record, but at the same time, a little wear here and there is all part of your musical story.
Do I need to replace the needle (stylus), and how often?
Yes, you will need to replace the stylus from time to time.
Just how often is a little bit like asking how long a set of tires might last on a car, it greatly depends on the conditions and how often you drive.
The same can be said for records. While there are several different opinions out there, I use the old Shure guidelines of every 1000 playing hours.
In normal people speak, over the course of a year, this works out at about four album plays per day.
How do I know if a vinyl record is valuable?
This is a question that’s asked a lot ever since the beginning of the vinyl revival.
The truth is, I can think of better investments for making a return than vinyl records, but let’s say you’ve inherited some records and you’re curious as to whether or not you’ve got a gems in the collection that might line your pockets with a few extra greenbacks…
Like anything in life, it all comes down to supply and demand. The easiest was to find out the rough value of your records is to use an online market place like Discogs.
You can use some key indicators like deadwax markings and matrix numbers to identify which pressing you own, and once you’re confident, Discogs can show you a low, median and high value based on past sales history.
Let’s say you’ve got a UK 1st mono pressing of The Beatles Sgt Peppers: according to Discogs, the highest value of this record was sold at £175, while the lowest sale falls at just £15. Based on this, a copy in very good shape with all the original inserts can easily fetch over £100.
If a record is out of print, or extremely rare, than naturally, you will see prices much higher than £175.
Can I store my vinyl records horizontally?
You should avoid storing vinyl records in flat, horizontal piles as the downward pressure can cause the disk to warp over time and contribute to scuffs or scratches on the record surface.
For records at the bottom of a large pile, the weight and pressure are significant, and because record labels protrude slightly from the surface, this pressure can make the record “bow” over time.
If there are any dirt particles on the record surface, the heavy pressure of horizontal stacking can also push the unwanted particles against the grooves, risking scratches.
What’s the difference between belt-drive and direct-drive turntables?
The key difference is how the motor drives the record platter. A belt drive turntable works by spinning the platter using an elastic belt that is attached to a motor. With a direct drive turntable, on the other hand, the platter sits directly on the motor.
Many purists will claim belt drive turntables benefit sonically from the isolated motor. However, it has to be said, it’s a little more complicated than that as there are good and bad versions of each design. DJ’s will invariably opt for direct drive due to their consistent playback speed, faster start and stopping time, and durability when spinning the platter backward for cueing and special effects.
Does 45 RPM sound better than 33 1/3 RPM?
When mastered well, 45 RPM records can have a significant audio quality benefit.
In simple terms, because a 45 RPM record spins faster, the groove is stretched.
Longer groove lengths result in shallower angles, which makes it easier for the stylus to track the grooves, especially during loud, complex passages of music with lots of high-frequency content. The result is less distortion from mistracking.
This better tracking is particularly beneficial at the inner grooves where loud high-frequency content is most challenging to track accurately.
Of course, the downside to all this is a reduction in playback time per side.
What does “180-gram vinyl” mean, and does it sound better?
Quite simply, 180-gram vinyl records are thicker, heavier records than the standard 120 – 150g pressings that were common throughout the 20th century.
You’ll often hear folks claim that heavier-weight vinyl allows for deeper grooves and more “detail,” but in reality, the technical standards for cutting grooves to vinyl master discs are exactly the same for all records, regardless of weight.
Therefore, the weight of a vinyl record has little to no impact on sound quality; the cut grooves are determined at the mastering stage, not by the record weight.
They feel more luxurious and are arguably less susceptible to warps, but other than that, it’s just about making the product feel more premium.
New Vinyl vs Original Pressings: Which is best?
This one comes with so many caveats that it will likely divide opinion.
In essence, I would say: buy what works for you. And while it’s really nice to own a piece of music history and own perfect original pressings, this can get expensive very quickly! Just think back to that original mono copy of The Beatles Sgt Peppers I mentioned earlier!
The appeal of picking up an original pressing sourced from the master tapes is undoubtedly high, but that doesn’t mean new pressings can’t be be as good.
Admittedly, they can vary greatly. It all comes down to how well the release was handled, from the source to the mastering process and even the final manufacturing.
The best advice I can give is to do some research and find the best release for you based on other collectors’ feedback and your budget.
Discogs comments are a great place to start, as many will comment on the sound quality of re-issues in the comments section of any particular release.
Another great source are online forums; websites like the Steve Hoffman forums often has some great insight from other collectors.
Do a little research, but also, don’t go hungry just to bag that rare original pressing!
Have you got a tip or common question you think I’ve missed from this list? Share it with the community in the comments.
I’m a bit reluctant to recommend Discogs, a great concept but my experience wasn’t good, record was over rated and flawed. There is an app that you can use to get the value of albums.
To what extent is a cartridge that important? Or a stylus?